The southern part of Kumamoto Prefecture boasts the renowned "Hitoyoshi Onsen," situated along the Kuma River and recognized as one of Japan's top three rapid streams. This is a hot spring region with a history dating back to the Warring States period.
The profound damage caused by heavy rainfall three years ago remains vivid, with ongoing efforts to restore roads and railways in the area. However, as the number of visitors increases, the onsen area has regained its liveliness and is on the path to recovery. Encouragingly, progress is being made on the road to recovery in the southern part of the Kumamoto region.
"Hitoyoshi Onsen" is known as "Beauty Hot Spring"
Hitoyoshi Onsen is hailed as the "beauty hot spring" among the numerous renowned onsen in Kyushu. Its enduring popularity is attributed to the quality of the hot spring.
Originating from a weak alkaline bicarbonate/chloride spring, Hitoyoshi Onsen may not be a strong-type hot spring, but its charm becomes more apparent with each soak. The outdoor baths at the Hitoyoshi inns, where the water temperature is warmer than the indoor baths, provide a serene environment for relaxation.
The astonishingly smooth sensation that gently envelops the skin during immersion and the extraordinary post-bath moisture negate the need for lotion or moisturizer, offering a natural skincare remedy.
Currently, there are 50 hot spring sources here, and depending on the inn or public bathhouse, you can savor subtle variations in the hot spring experience.
The "Hitoyoshi Hotel" is a quaint Japanese inn that opened its doors in 1933
The allure of Hitoyoshi Onsen lies not only in its splendid spring quality but also in its status as a historically rich hot spring destination.
Lining the river are venerable inns that have been in operation for over a century, exuding the ambiance of hot springs. The streets, adorned with remnants of a castle town, enhance the sense of travel.
Among them, the "Renji Hotel" stands as a time-honored traditional inn, registered as a tangible cultural heritage in Japan. The building suffered severe damage during recent heavy rains, with the first-floor ceiling inundated. However, all restoration work has been completed, and the structure has been fully restored.
Preserving the original 1930s modern Japanese architecture, the inn exudes a nostalgic atmosphere, making it photogenic from every angle.
Strolling through the corridors, admiring the courtyard, and facing the vintage glass windows reflecting the lush greenery, complete with decorative stained glass, this inn is irresistible for those who appreciate architecture and interior design.
Pass through the nostalgic interior decor and head to the communal bathhouse.
Just strolling within the establishment in a yukata evokes the feeling of being on a hot spring journey. From the moment of entering the bathing facility, the ambiance of the hot spring intensifies.
There are separate indoor baths for men and women (operating at different times throughout the day) and one outdoor bath each. Additionally, there are two small family baths available for use at any time.
The indoor baths are accessible 24 hours a day, and there is also an unusual deep indoor bath with a depth of 80 centimeters, resembling a swimming pool.
By the way, the hot spring water at Renji Hotel is a light brown and cloudy, with occasional brown spots floating on the surface.
Although the pH value is 8.1 and the alkalinity is not very high, the water has a surprisingly viscous feel, likely due to the high content of metasilicic acid and boric acid.
The bath also includes a bench inside which making it comfortable to sit and stretch your legs while bathing. The indoor bath is so comfortable that it's satisfying to do nothing else but soak in the hot spring.
The location of the rest area is excellent that offering a breathtaking view of the Kuma River right in front of the rooms.
- Hitoyoshi Hotel（人吉旅館）
- Address: 160 Kami-Aoi-cho, Hitoyoshi City, Kumamoto Prefecture
- Access: Hitoyoshi Station *Note: Yatsushiro Station is the nearest station, but currently, it is temporarily suspended.
- Business Hours: Check-in 15:00 / Check-out 10:00
- Website: https://www.hitoyoshiryokan.com/
Take A Stroll in Hitoyoshi Town
Aoi Aso Shrine（青井阿蘇神社）
Visit the "Aoi Aso Shrine (青井阿蘇神社)" as your first destination in Hitoyoshi. There's a sizable torii gate visible from the entrance of the Renji Hotel. It is the only national treasure in Kumamoto Prefecture, affectionately called "Aoiku" by the locals.
The main hall of Aoi Aso Shrine is said to have been built in the first year of the Daitoku era (806), and the current shrine architecture was constructed between the Keicho era 15-18 (1610-1613) by Arai Nagamasa.
The vibrant red "Misogi Bridge 禊橋（みそぎばし）" stretching across the lotus pond in front of the shrine's main gate leaves a lasting and picturesque impression!
In recent years, during heavy rainfall in Kumamoto, the water level rose to the top of the bridge, submerging the torii gate beneath. Now, it has returned to a tranquil state, once again guarding the people of Hitoyoshi. The scenery around the pond, with people strolling at their own pace along the paths, creates a serene atmosphere.
- Aoi Aso Shrine（青井阿蘇神社）
- Address: 118 Kami-Oomachi, Hitoyoshi City, Kumamoto Prefecture
- Opening Hours:
- Exorcism Reception: 9:00 to 11:30 / 13:00 to 16:00.
- Red Seal Reception: 9:00 to 16:00
- Amulet Issuance: 9:00 to 17:00
- Website: https://aoisan.jp/
On the way from Aoiaso Shrine to Kajiyamachi Street, you'll encounter historic facilities and recently opened cafes, providing a glimpse into Hitoyoshi's evolving history.
Kajiyamachi Street（鍛冶屋町通り）
A must-visit pedestrian route to experience Hitoyoshi's history is "Kajiyamachi Street."
During the Sagara Clan era, blacksmith shops flourished, and the street was a thriving production site for knives, firearms, agricultural tools, and more. Today, one blacksmith shop and one soy sauce brewery remain on the cobblestone path.
The area is also dotted with cafes and restaurants that making it an excellent place for both a leisurely walk and exploration.
- Kajiyamachi Street（鍛冶屋町通り）
- Address: Hitoyoshi City, Kajiyamachi
- Access: 5 minutes by car from Hitoyoshi Station
- Website: https://kumamoto.guide/spots/detail/19293
Hitoyoshi Castle Ruins（人吉城跡公園）
Hitoyoshi Castle Ruins (人吉城跡公園) is located across the Kuma River from the "Kajiyamachi Street." The park is well-preserved, featuring the remains of the damaged stone walls.
The view of Hitoyoshi Town from this vantage point is spectacular, making the climb worthwhile. The original castle site dating back to the Kamakura period is also nearby, making it a must-visit for castle enthusiasts.
- Hitoyoshi Castle Ruins（人吉城跡公園）
- Address: Hitoyoshi City, Fumoto-machi, Kumamoto Prefecture
- Website: https://kumamoto.guide/spots/detail/11630
Local Delicacies Not to be Missed - Kumamoto Shochu and Eel Restaurants
Speaking of Hitoyoshi, we cannot forget the existence of "Kuma Shochu (球磨焼酎)."
Did you know that Kuma Shochu is one of the few globally recognized brands named after a specific location, akin to Scotch whisky, Bordeaux wine, and Cognac?
Currently, 27 distilleries are producing their unique shochu. If you enjoy alcoholic beverages, visiting distilleries and their retail outlets can be quite enjoyable.
You'll find a rich variety of products in liquor stores and supermarkets. The Kuma Shochu counter at the Hitoyoshi Onsen Products Center, located behind Aoiaso Shrine, also boasts a diverse selection. If you are looking for local specialties, be sure to check it out.
Another local specialty to notice while strolling through Hitoyoshi town is the eel restaurant.
"Uemura Unagiya (上村うなぎ屋)," a renowned eel restaurant with a history of over 100 years, and several other establishments emit a fragrant aroma. The eaves of these restaurants line up neatly, creating a nostalgic atmosphere.
Stylish cafes are scattered around, including the notable "Asa Coffee" near Kajiyamachi Street. Its popularity lies in the blend of retro and modern tastes.
In addition to the hot springs in the inns, there are also many public bathhouses, making it an excellent destination for strolling through the town while enjoying the hot springs. Of course, a day trip might not be enough, so an overnight stay is highly recommended!
Transportation to Hitoyoshi Onsen
The nearest airport to Hitoyoshi Onsen is not Kumamoto Airport but rather Kagoshima Airport. The journey from the airport to Hitoyoshi takes approximately 50 minutes, remarkably close to the metropolitan area.
Additionally, a high-speed bus service (alighting at the nearby Hitoyoshi IC, then taking a taxi or bus) adds to the convenience of transportation, presenting a significant advantage.
Continued Suspension of Services at Hitoyoshi Station
Hitoyoshi is affectionately known as the "City of Delight" among railway enthusiasts. The SL Hitoyoshi Line, JR Hohi Line, Kuma River Railway, along with the renowned circular-shaped stations and station bento vendors, capture the hearts of railway aficionados.
Unfortunately, due to the torrential rain disaster three years ago, services between JR Hisatsu Line's Yatsushiro Station and Hitoyoshi Station are currently suspended (as of December 2023). When traveling from the nearest station, Yatsushiro Station, to Hitoyoshi, it is recommended to take a high-speed bus or a taxi.
Preparations for the gradual resumption of station services are underway, while the Hitoyoshi Railway Museum, "MOZOCA Station 868," has already reopened.
The renowned "Station Bento" of Hitoyoshi Station is available for purchase beside the station! Although the trains have not yet resumed operation, one can still observe some tourists visiting the station, adding to its undeniable charm.
The currently suspended Kuma River Railway has announced a comprehensive resumption of operations in 2025. The people of Hitoyoshi are currently working diligently to rebuild the town, aspiring to collectively forge a brighter future.
